Clutch...& stuff! First, a
little information about the components... (some info
gathered on the web)
(pictures are not all from
a VW) |
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Flywheel
The flywheel provides a friction surface for the clutch disc, a mounting
surface for the pressure plate, a mounting for the starter driven gear,
and on some engines, the flywheel is a factor in engine balance.
The condition of the friction surface
of the flywheel is important for proper clutch function. The surface
should be smooth and free of burned spots and surface cracks. Used
flywheels can be re-surfaced. This should be done by grinding rather
than lathe turning as less material is removed. The amount of material
removed from the face can affect which clutch release bearing should be
used. A flywheel should always be checked for runout on the engine it
will be used on. Face runout should not exceed .005 (five thousandths)
of an inch. |
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Pressure Plate
This is the "driven" part of the clutch. It has a friction material
riveted to each side of a wavy spring (called a marcel). This is
attached to a splined hub that the transmission input gear protrudes
into.
There are basically two types of
friction material used for clutch lining. These are organic and metallic.
The organic is best for all around use. The metallic is preferred by
some for severe duty applications but requires high spring pressures and
is hard on the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces. Avoid
solid hub clutches and clutches without marcel as they will always
chatter when used in vehicles with a rear differential mounted on
springs (as opposed to a transaxle design). |
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Clutch Disc
This is the "driven" part of the clutch. It has a friction material
riveted to each side of a wavy spring (called a marcel). This is
attached to a splined hub that the transmission input gear protrudes
into.
There are basically two types of
friction material used for clutch lining. These are organic and metallic.
The organic is best for all around use. The metallic is preferred by
some for severe duty applications but requires high spring pressures and
is hard on the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces. Avoid
solid hub clutches and clutches without marcel as they will always
chatter when used in vehicles with a rear differential mounted on
springs (as opposed to a transaxle design). |
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Pilot Bushing
(roller bearing as like like to call this one)
In most cases, this is a porous bronze, pre-lubed bushing rather than an
actual bearing, as it is often called. A few applications still use an
actual bearing and others use a needle roller type bearing, but by far,
the most common type is bronze. You cannot use a roller bearing on a
transmission shaft originally designed for a bronze bushing due to
different type of heat treatment on the shafts. The pilot bushing is
seldom thought of as a part of the clutch system but it is one of the
most vital parts of the system. It pilots the end of the
transmission input gear in the crankshaft. If it is worn or not running
"true", it can cause serious clutch problems or transmission failure.
Pilot bushing bore runout should always be checked with a dial indicator
and should be within .002 total. The bronze bushing type should be a
press fit in the crankshaft bore. It must be installed carefully. It
should have between .001 and .003 clearance on the transmission shaft
when installed. The pilot bushing is only functional when the clutch is
disengaged but it is a factor in input gear alignment at ALL times. |
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Clutch Release Bearing
(sometime called the Throw-out bearing)
As its name implies, this is the bearing that releases the clutch.
It is often referred toas a "throw-out" bearing. They come on a number
of different style carriers. The carriers, in some cases, vary
considerably with the particular engine.Because the release bearing only
works when the clutch is being released it usually lasts quite a long
time. However, improper linkage adjustment or riding the clutch with
your foot when driving can wear the bearing prematurely. Normally there
should be a minimum of 1/16" clearance between the face of the bearing
and the three release fingers or diaphragm spring of the pressure plate
when the clutch is engaged. This fact is important and will be discussed
further when we get to the part about setting up the clutch linkage. |
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Transmission Front Bearing
Retainer
This great device has three critical functions. This first is as its
name implies. The second is to provide a register on which the
bellhousing must center. This is feature is sometimes overlooked with
expensive consequences. Thirdly, its tubular snout is the surface on
which the throwout bearing rides on its way into to depress the springs
of the pressure plate. Conversions often require special and modified
retainers to acheive compatibility. |
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A """general""" view of a clutch
assembly..... |
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For those who have manual transmission
Clutch hydrolic system failure:
I'm now doing a "Top-End" engine for a lady that goes to Mexico each year with
her van... she said: fix her good... she had too many problems wile travelling (and
i can see why now).. more to come on that later
Her van would be a good exemple of the average Vanagon owner trying to do her
best as to "maintenance"!!! i think for many reasons, that i will take a few
picture of that van, not only the engine but the van the van is equiped...
How can i say that in English! Lately, or should i say since...ever, i have
observe that the system is lasy.. ok!
How does it work... our clutch system have no wire in between the clutch pedal
and the clutch itself, it's hydrolic, oil pushing oil in a very small tube...
ok, so you press the pedal in the front, on this pedal there is a master clutch
cylinder... and a slave cylinder in the back is pushing the clutch lever...
simple! the cluth oil is the same as the brake oil, by that i mean that if the
clutch is missing oil, or need some (that my point here) it will take the oil
from the brake refill tank under the dash!
Ok! so, if there is no air in the system!!! when you release the pedal, the
lever in the back should COMPLETELY release the clutch AND MOVE AWAY FROM THE
CLUTCH BASKET.... and that is my point here!!!
The cluch pressure bearing is NOT design to spin all the time but on the
opposite, only spin when you press the pedal, when you release the pedal, the
bearing should move away from the clutch basket and stop spinning!!! THAT IS THE
PROBLEM... with time, even if any of those 2 (slave and master) are not leaking,
they become lasy and are not working properly... by that i mean that even with
the clutch pedal release... the slave is pushing enough the bearing so it touch
the basket and... it's spinning all the time...
1 on 2 Vanagon as this problem! on short distance it's not a big problem but on
the long run.. it is a big one.
Those bearing can spin for a long time and should give some signs before
exploding (noisy)! yea.. but they can explode.. one of my customer had the bell
housing with a hole in it as pieces of that bearing made the cluth disintegrated!
Sometime it's so bad that when the engine is out, i look at that bearing and
it's at the "clutch pedal to the floor" position BUT no one is pressing the
pedal in the front!!! basicaly, the bearing is at the opposite position of where
it should be.
Some mechanic and even VW dealer will tel you: it's normal, the vehicle was
design like that... Grrrrrrrrrrr....... it si NOT! if you put a well bleeded new
master and slave... you will see that this is NOT happening! they are perfectly
syncronise! and the bearing is moving away from the clutch basket
So that said, is there anyway of checking that with the engine still attach to
the trany... yes... have a GOOD mechanic look at the clutch lever (left side of
trany), this one should be fully UP, all the way up, if he can push it up by
hand, and it come back on it's own, you have a problem
I will take pictures later and i will make a small video of everything i just
said!
Cheers, Ben